10 September 2007
The Witchery by the Castle, Edinburgh
For my 30th birthday, Nina brought me to Edinburgh, to stay in the Witchery’s Library Suite. It was fantastic beyond belief, and I recommend it to everyone. We’ll be going back as often as possible, I think, and not least because of the food in the restaurant. It’s often deemed the best restaurant in Edinburgh.
We had a table for two at seven on the Saturday evening. When we arrived, the place was very quiet, but by eight o’clock, it was essentially full. It can seat about 32 people, by my rough head count, and the ratio of staff to customers seems to be about ideal - while we had waiters on hand whenever they were even remotely necessary, they weren’t otherwise obtrusive. And they’re very, very nice - many staff in restaurants of similar quality seem to be either obsequious or snobby, while the folks in the Witchery have it just right.
I started with a single malt, to follow on from my whisky-tasting adventures earlier in the day, a Bunnahabhain 12 Year, which was brought straight, with an offer of ice or water, which I declined. We took our time over the menu, and even longer over the wine list, eventually settling on a South African Shiraz from Thelema Mountain Vineyards. I think it was the 2003, and it was excellent. The Witchery’s wine list needs to be seen to be believed, though - it’s a big, big book, with enough wines in it to merit a table of contents.
The starters arrived in good time, and we’d been supplied with fresh bread and good butter in the meantime. Nina had a ceviche of wild salmon with sakura cress, and I had steak tartare - which was without a doubt the best beef I have ever eaten. It was served with a fried quail egg, which went perfectly, and a celeric remoulade. I was rather too distracted by the beef to pay attention to the remoulade, though.
Onward to the mains - and while we were waiting, we were offered more bread, which is not something that has happened much in other restaurants. I approve. I had saddle of rabbit wrapped up in Parma ham , served with savoy cabbage, almonds and tea soaked a’gean prunes. I had resolved before I went in that game was what I was having, and I was not disappointed; the rabbit was sublime, the savoy cabbage almost as good, and the prunes a perfect counterpoint. The new potatoes as a side dish were also very, very good. Nina had a rack of lamb with baked polenta, broad beans, pancetta and mint, and it was, if anything, even better than the rabbit. Even the side dish of chips was impressively fine. The broad beans and pancetta are something I’ll be keeping in mind for my own cooking, as they went very well indeed together.
We were well stuffed at that stage, but we had some breathing space while we waited for dessert and coffee. Nina had ordered a pudding selection - pudding, you note, not dessert - and I the cheese selection. I had coffee as well, and when the milk and sugar were brought, there were a few chilled chocolates alongside. The cheeses - five, from all over the British Isles, including a Cornish cheese wrapped in nettles - were served with a very good chutney and quince jelly, along with oatcakes. Nina’s report on the pudding selection was equally good.
In summary, I don’t think I’ve eaten that well anywhere in my life before. It was absolutely superb, and I’d encourage anyone who’s in Edinburgh to visit.